Over the last decade, there have been changes in the paints that woodworkers use. This is due to safety regulations which makes the paint these days safer to use.

One of the most important things to remember is always read the instructions on any of the products. Don?t assume because you have used one manufacturers product that they are all the same. Also always use good ventilation as most often the fumes can be very harmful.

As we said, misuse of these products can be very detrimental to ones health. The most common ingredient is Methylene Chloride and is most often found in paint and varnish strippers. It is toxic and may be a carcinogen. It should not be used by people with heart problems because it makes the heart work hard. It forms carbon monoxide in the blood through metabolism. Products containing this ingredient should not be used by people with heart ailments. It comes in various strengths and may be a liquid or a paste.

Acetone, Toluene and Methanol or ATM are usually found in Lacquer thinner. As a combination, they are very aggressive. These types of strippers work well on old paints and finishes. Although they are in a sense safer to use, as they don?t have the health concern that MC has caution is still important. They are a source of air pollution and they are flammable. If the particular brand you are using contains alkali then it will stain some hardwoods.

N-Methyl Pyrrolidone works slower and not as effective on epoxy, polyester or baked coatings. Di-basic esters are the least effective of them all that we have mentioned so far.

NMP/DBE Combo strippers are now becoming popular as the DBE reduces the cost compared to the NMP.

NMP and DBE for finish removal. NMP/DBE combination strippers are generally less toxic although some manufacturers will add solvents such as xylene, which makes them toxic, air polluting, and flammable.

Lye is Sodium Hydroxide works well but is dangerous to work with.

Ammonia Hydroxide is used to fortify and strength the solvents.

There are new products coming out on the market all the time. The best solution is to ask the supplier where you are purchasing your products, which is the best to use for the particular task you are facing. Once he has made his recommendations read the label before buying. Now that you have an understanding of some of the ingredients, you will understand the safety issues that are involved. If there are, ingredients that we have not mentioned here then take the time to list them and review them before purchasing the product. Although these are wonderful products, your health and safety are the major concern. They have been allowed on the open market provided they are labeled with explicit instructions as to their use. It is the responsibility of the purchaser to follow all instructions to ensure your safety. If you are not sure about an ingredient then research it well. There should be ample information on the internet concerning it.

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It doesn’t matter what type of hobby you may be involved in you must always be aware of any potential dangers and safety factors. In the case of woodworking, there are many potential hazards and you must be aware of them not only for your safety but also for the safety of others.

a) Alcohol and tools just don?t make a good team. Avoid the consumption of alcohol whenever you are going to be working with your tools no matter how minor they are. Even with a chisel or a knife, you can get some pretty bad cuts. Your mind needs to be clear when involved in this hobby. The same applies for prescriptive drugs for example that may cause drowsiness.

b) Observe the conditions that you are working in. Sawdust as well as toxic fumes can be deadly to your health. The dangers with these are that the results they can create may not be evident immediately. Health hazards such as these can show their results years later. Use only anti explosion fans and make sure you have a good supply of fresh air.

c) No doubt you have seen a lot of protective gear on the shelves where you buy your equipment and supplies. These items are not just fads and can be important to your health. Items like protection for your ears and safety glasses should be a priority. Something as simple as using a push stick when you are work up close to the blade can save a limb.

d) Don?t socialize when you are working in your woodwork shop, even having a television or radio on can be a bad idea. Anything that could distract you and take your attention away from what you are doing could lead to a potential accident.

e) It is imperative that you keep your shop clean. If you leave tools, lying on the floor there is a good chance you are going to trip. If you are, hanging tools make sure they are secure and you don?t run the risk of them falling on you. Watch for cords try to keep them away from areas where you are going to be walking. Sweep up your debris. Sawdust can make a floor like a skating rink.

f) There will be times that your won?t seem like it is cutting right or it is resisting. Don?t get frustrated and start pushing the wood. Stop and inspect the equipment to see what the problem is. If you continue to force the wood, it could spring back and hit you.

g) Think about what you are cutting. Don?t let your thoughts stray you must concentrate at all times.

h) If you are in a hurry then you should not be working. This is when accidents are most likely to happen.

I) Wear the right clothing. If you have long hair keep it tied back. Remove your jewelry before working with your tools.

j) Make sure your power tools have completely stopped before touching them or setting them down.

Just good common sense thinking can prevent the majority of accidents that can occur in the workshop.

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In many ways, it is rewarding to restore an old house or even renovate a newer one. Probably one of the most disliked projects yet most impressive when completed is your cabinets in many cases. Hopefully you can at least take the doors off and work in your workshop on them. This just leaves the base of the cabinets themselves. No doubt, this is going to cause some disruption in the kitchen and the dust from the sanding can be annoying to deal with particularily in this room.

To do the job right its means you have to strip all the old product such as paint and finish off. Then you have to bleach the wood to remove either the stains that were left from the old finish or having something spilt or set on them. Then there is sanding and scraping to tend to. Finally, there is the new stain and them the finish to be done. After all,\ of this you can sit back and admire you long and enduring hard work.

Most jobs of this magnitude don?t usually go all that trouble free. You will run into at least a few minor snags, but the majority of them can be dealt with. It?s important that you know the wood that your cabinets are made from. If it?s an older house don?t be surprised to find out that there are several varieties that were used. In this case, you will never get one light stain to come out the same on all the pieces. You can however go to a deeper stain and get results that are more satisfactory.

You really may want to consider buying new doors and drawers and just keeping the original framework. When you are working with the many chemicals it would take to strip your cupboards most often, it can be too harsh on older wood. Another issue is getting the old finish totally stripped at hard to get at pieces can sometimes be impossible. Then once you even get to the point where the old cupboards are prepared for the new stain and finishes you have to take into account the several coatings you are going to have to apply and the drying time that is going to be involved. The kitchen is one of the most difficult rooms to work in because of the food preparation, grease and steam that is almost always present there.

Before you say no to the idea of buying new doors and drawers at least check out your home improvement store and see what they have to offer. At least this way you are covering all of the possible options and making an informed opinion.

If you have decided to go ahead with the original, you may want to consider at least buying new hardware. In the older cupboards quite often the door handles didn?t have a lot of character and the knobs were likely ceramic that has become cracked and chipped.

You are going to have to make decisions on what type of refinish you are going to do. This is best done after all the preparation work is done so you can see what condition the cabinets are in. This will determine if you are going to have to go with a darker stain.

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When it comes time to finish your project you need to know that for wood treatments it is either stain, paints or finish. They are each providing a different outcome. To tint the wood you would use wood stains. Paints sit on the wood and protect it. Some finishes are pretty much paint without any color added to it. They are the ones that give that clear protection.

Probably one of the most well known finishes is varnish. It?s a great finish because the more layers you use the stronger the finish. The major problem with varnish is it dries slowly which increases the chance for dust to get into the finish. If possible, try to do your finishing work in an area where there is the least amount of dust.

A mixture of resins and synthetics boiled together is what makes varnish. If you are using polyurethane?s then you are simply using a varnish that has had a polyurethane resin added to it. When you are using a varnish that contains a higher quantity of oil, it makes the product more flexible and this is known as Spar varnish, which makes it perfect for outdoor use because of it flexing properties.

If you are going to use varnish as your finishing product then you need to know how to apply it properly. Working in a dust free room is a priority. Then using a tack cloth wipe down your project as it must be perfectly clean. Put some of your varnish into a container that you can work out of .That way if it becomes contaminated with dust you can just discard that amount. Apply the varnish using long steady strokes with a brush working in the grain direction. Tip off your brush strokes. Wed sand in between coats with fine sandpaper.

There is also wiping varnish but read the labels carefully before using this product to be sure that it is varnish and not tung oil.

Then there are oil and varnish blends. They work similar to an oil finish but have a bit more protection to them but they are not for building layers.

Shellac is a natural resin but not is as durable as the others are. It?s not good for items such as kitchen counter or cabinets for example. It is a fast drying product though and you can get it in various colors.

Lacquer is usually applied with a spray gun but the fumes can be dangerous and the dry dust is explosive.

There are some really good what are labeled as water based finishes but they all have a certain amount of solvent in them. Their two weaknesses is they show brush marks and they bubble when you are applying them so use a synthetic brush for this.

Proper sanding between coats of your finish is one of your most important steps. Be sure to use fine sandpaper. The sanding removes bumps and uneven spots. Especially made sandpaper for wet sanding is ideal. Really, take the time to research the various finishes you are going to use to get the best application and intended use from them.

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It seems that even those of us that aren’t all that artistic seem to become more creative around the Christmas season. Woodworkers will start building and decorating nifty ornaments

One of the most admired outdoor ornaments is the white Christmas reindeer made from a simple sheet of 4ft.x8ft. exterior grade plywood. No need for a lot of tools either as an electric jig saw will do just fine. One thing you may want to plan on is that just making one of them doesn?t fit the picture. You need at least two and if you feel really creative go ahead and make as many as you like.

There are many places on the internet that you can find quite a few patterns with some variations to them. If it?s your first woodworking project then stay with a simple basic pattern. You can get fancier on your next ones.

So to get started. First, lay your pattern out on the plywood. If you follow the layout instructions that came with your pattern, you will not have much waste of wood. You will find that you can make two reindeer out of just this one sheet of plywood. Now this is the simple way of doing your set but beware because once this set is done you can bet the neighbors and friends are going to being giving some hints on how they would like some. Therefore, to save yourself some work later on make a wood pattern from your paper pattern. You will find it?s much easier to work with. Luan material is good for this.

If you feel that, you don?t want to ruin your pattern by tracing over it then make a paper pattern using graphite paper. Then you can tuck the original away and use it again when your temporary one is no good.

Now using your jigsaw and taking some time just follow the lines of the pattern you traced on the wood. You are going to see an area that has been marked for the slot so be sure you do a perfect cut here so the pieces will interlock properly. Now once this is done and your project is taking shape give them a quick sand and you are ready to add some life to them. You may be a little confused with all the parts that you now have before you but just follow the step-by-step instructions for assembling them.

These little guys are going to be outdoors so you want to give them a good coat of high quality outdoor paint. You may find that its necessary to give them two or three coats but that doesn?t take all that long. After your final coat of white and it?s dried well then paint on the features and give it a couple of coats of urethane. Then out to the yard they go to say merry Christmas to all.

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Keeping dust levels low during woodworking is critical. It avoids accidents, keeps you healthy and preserve your tools.

You may take a look around your shop and be thinking this isn?t applicable to me it?s not all that bad. If you want some proof that it is or some assurance that its not then you can conduct a test to determine this.

At the end of your workshop day turn off all the lights then shine a flashlight into the air. Everything that you see there you have been breathing in all day. If this isn?t enough to convince you to wear a respirator then you are risking developing some serious health problems. If the test serves no other purpose it will at least tell, you if the air is clean enough for you to put the finish on your project which of course should be dust free.

As if one type of dust wasn?t enough to deal with there are actually three types that you must contend with. If you plane by hand then you are going to compile shavings. These wouldn?t get into your lungs but they will sure clog up your hoses. The bi products of your routers and shapers for example will be wood chips. Here you will want a shop vac to gather these up.

You must design a dust control regime and it really isn?t difficult. The first and most simple method is ventilation. Just keeping a window or door open helps immensely. It would be even more effective if you blew the dust out by fan.

Another valuable piece of equipment is air cleaners. These automatically filter the air then recycle it. There are very effective for small particles. There is a variety of other equipment on the market to help you keep your shop a safe place to work in. There are shop vacuums designed for heavy-duty removal then various types of dust collectors such as single and duel stage collectors. Then there are separators that will segregate the various sizes of debris. Then if you want to get really elaborate, there are whole shop systems.

The whole point is that you want to use whatever method you can to keep the various types of sawdust under control. Aside from your health and safety, it?s most frustrating when your projects work out great then the finish is full of dust particles.

Ideally the best thing to do is incorporate the simple measures that we have talked about here and if they are not doing a good enough job then research some of the more larger aggressive ways that we have supplied as options to you as well. Where ever you buy your tools and equipment from should have various options for you to consider. They are well worth the time and money to invest in.

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All too often, novice woodworkers don’t realize the power of wood putty. No doubt, they have heard about it and perhaps worked with it once or twice but had poor results. Chances are they either used the wrong product or the wrong application or maybe even both. It is sometimes referred to as wood filler or wood patch. It may be a water base or a solvent based. Solvent base has probably been the favored choice in the past. The water-based products have really made some excellent strides in their performance and are now being used more.

There is nitrocellulose-based putty. This dries very fast. To clean up all you need is some diluted acetone or lacquer thinner.

A gypsum-based putty comes in a powder form and you have to mix the proper ratio with water. If you clean up while it?s wet, it?s simply done with plain water. If you let the gypsum dry and try to clean up with water, it just isn?t going to happen.

Finally, an acrylic based putty will clean up with water as well until it dries then after that you will need to clean with acetone or toluene.

There are advantages to working with water wood-based fillers because they don?t have the heavy fumes to them that the solvent-based ones do and they are easier to work with. What woodworkers like about it the most though is how easy it is to clean up. It is also more economical for storage as it doesn?t? dry out as fast as the solvent-based putties do.

All wood putty is really is a glue mixed with material such a sawdust or gypsum for example. It creates a binder that holds the filler together.

Once you get used to working with wood putty ideally, you will want to keep both on hand if you are an avid wood worker or do it yourselfer.

Knowing which putty to use in the beginning may be a bit of a challenge. You want one that is going to stick and not shrink once it has dried. Another attribute about a good filler is you should need to sand it a great deal and it should have a satin finish to it afterwards.

Woods like poplar, rosewood or walnut just to name a few have very large pores and open grains. You can use wood filler to even out some of the grains in these types of woods.

Another good feature about wood putty is that it comes it different colors, which makes it much easier for blending. Ideally, before you use any of the colors check it on an unobserved piece of the wood to see what the end result is going to be. It may come out lighter or darker than you intended. If you are new to using wood putty ask your local paint supplier which seems to be the favored by most of their customers. This often gives you a good indication on how good and effective a product will be.

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If you have a cedar chest that is passed down to you as a heirloom, it is important that you know how to take care of and maintain it. You have to take steps to restore it now so that it can withstand the hands of time.

One of the most significant things that you may have noticed is that familiar cedar odor is gone. You may remember as a child perhaps when you grandmother would open the chest you would get that woody cedar aroma. Just the thought of it brings back memories. Sadly, though you noticed it is no longer the case. Now when you open the chest there is nothing.

Fortunately, you can restore this. Aside from it creating wonderful memories for you, the cedar has a useful side. It is a natural bug repellant. That s why it was such a favored wood for building these chests. This is where precious items were stored and everyone wanted to ensure they would be where pests would not destroy them.

Over the years no matter how preserved the cedar chest was dust gets into the pores of the wood and clogs them. Or it has been a cedar chest that was in continuous use then the pores may have become pinched shut. So what has happened now is the aroma that once emitted through these pores can no longer do so.

The objective is to open the pores to restore the aroma that is waiting to be let loose. There are a couple of ways you can do this. One method is to very lightly sand the surface using a fine 200 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. What this will do is the sandpaper will penetrate the pores and will open up pockets in the wood where the precious cedar oil is contained. Be very careful with the sanding though as you don?t want to end up with scratch marks. This is avoidable if you sand in the same direction as the grain. You will find that it?s not going to take much sanding before you smell the aroma of the cedar once again.

There are times though when the cedar is just too old for the sanding technique to work. Before going to all that work try sanding a discrete area to see what the end result will be like.

Another way of doing it is to rejuvenate the piece. You can do this with extracts like cedar and some cedar sprays.

You may want to try putting some good grade cedar chips in a nylon and tying it tightly. Place this at the bottom of your cedar chest. Although not as good as the actual odor from the chest it will still no doubt stir up so old memories.

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Many individual woodworkers even seasoned ones don’t really understand the term reaction wood. This is where a piece of wood has a flaw or imperfection in it but one cannot see it easily. Then what happens is when a thin strip is removed from this type of wood it warps or twist. Then it could also pinch the blade and you end up with burns in the wood caused by friction or the blade stalls.

The culprit of this is that the piece of wood you are working with as been cut from a tree that had a lean in it. If it happened to be one of the softwood trees that it came from than the reaction wood will be called compression wood because it comes from the lower side of the lean. You may notice that this type of wood is very dense. Additionally it will be hard and brittle.

With hardwood trees, the compression wood comes from the opposite of the softwood types. In this case, now the reaction wood takes place on the upper side on the lean. It is now called tension wood. You may notice with tension wood that you get a lot of shrinkage in the length and it will have that wooly surface appearance to it.

If at all possible you want to avoid buying the reaction woods. To begin with if it?s the hardwood then the density it going to give you a problem when you go to stain it. The stain will not take evenly. This will be noticeable when you put it with the other parts of your project.

Another problem with reaction wood is its weakness. It won?t accept a heavy load. Then also, when you go to put your nails or screws into it the wood is liable to crack or split easier. If you are using this type of wood for carving or getting it to take any type of shape you are going to find its not very cooperative. It will react adversely to moisture changes as well.

The difficult issue about this whole problem is how to be able to identify what is a piece of reaction wood. For the untrained eye, it?s almost impossible but there are a few common place things that you can look for that may be of some help.

If you take a close look at the piece of wood you are thinking of buying and you notice there is a sweep to it or it seems crooked then don?t buy it. Most likely it is reaction wood. If you are familiar with the type of wood, you are looking at and it seems out of character then use caution. If you find that the piece seems harder than usual or dense, it?s most likely reaction wood.

If you see that, the wood looks fuzzy or there are cracks that are pulling away from the board that?s another sign of the reaction wood.

Hopefully by knowing a little about reaction wood your tools aren?t going to get all the blame that comes with the mishaps of this type of inferior wood.

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Not too many people realize that you can bleach wood although most are aware that you can stain it. It can be frustrating sometimes when you buy a piece of wood for a project and the colors are so naturally uneven that it looks like it has been done on purpose. You can use bleaching techniques on the darker area to lighten it up somewhat so it blends in more with the lighter shade. Another good use for utilizing the properties of bleach is when wood has black spots on it created by water stains and some various other types of stains.

The properties of bleach create a chemical action just as they do when we use a bleach to remove stains or whiten our clothes. When it comes to the bleach?s reaction on the wood, it doesn?t actually remove the stain it just causes a chain reaction to turn them into a colorless component.

Just as with working with any, chemical or solvent one needs to be properly protected. Gloves are a must and even protective clothing is beneficial. Eye protection glasses are also very important. There are specific bleaches designed for wood and these can be caustic and burn your skin. As a safety precaution keep a container of clear water in your area in the event that you do get some on your skin. Should this occur wash it off immediately.

Bleaching is only applicable to bare wood so you need to remove any coloring on the wood.

The First bleach: Is a combination of sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide. They are used as a combination but are sold in separate containers. It?s when they are applied to the wood that the chemical action takes place. This is good for evening out the color variations in the wood.

The Second bleach: Is chlorine bleach and is used to remove the dye stains left in wood .The household chlorine we use for clothes is weaker than the brand used for woodworking but it can be used but will require several applications.

The Third bleach: Oxalic acid is the treatment you want for iron stains and black water rings that are left on the furniture, which the paint stripping did not remove.

Once you have used any bleaching procedure you must stop the chemical reaction. A thorough rinsing with plain water then a second rinsing with a mixture of baking soda and water will do this. If you have used a two-part bleach, you can neutralize it with a mixture of one part vinegar to two parts water.

It is important to fully read and understand the instructions on wood bleaches before working with them.

Remember the wood must be stripped clean of any color first before using the wood bleaches. These bleaches are not your common household bleaches and you can purchase them as a rule from where you buy your paint and finishing supplies.

Its always a good idea to test a small area of the wood before doing a full application to be sure you are not going to get any adverse results from the chemical reactions.

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